5/8″ Nylon Lead Rope with Braided Loop #ALR5
$26.00
Description: This 5/8″ Nylon Lead Rope with Braided Loop #ALR5 is made of white medium lay 5/8 inch nylon rope with an eye loop that’s hand braided/spliced in. The tail is braided back to prevent unraveling. The nylon is 10 feet before braiding, making it approximately 8 ft. 6 in. when it’s finished. The 5/8 inch nylon makes a good, stout, lead rope with plenty of flexibility to tie easily. You can read how to properly tie a lead rope by clicking: Take Me To Your Lead Rope.
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1 3/4″ Hobble #H2
$126.00Description: The 1 3/4″ Hobble #H2 is handmade of doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather with smooth handmade stainless steel squares. This is a stout hobble at 1 3/4 inches. The soft but strong latigo leather should not chafe your horse’s legs.
How it works: Many horses have been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because they were hobble trained. A horseman may also teach his or her horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so it won’t need to be tied or ground tied. When a horse is hobbled it won’t hurt its mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or looped rein. Hobbles and sidelines can also have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind. Investing in hobbles and their training can have big pay-backs.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on proper and safe use of hobbles.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
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Easy Stop #ES1
$229.00Description: The Easy Stop #ES1 is a very good piece of tack to use when you want to teach your horse to stop correctly when cued, without having to put pressure on the mouth. Often a horse will show a lot of improvement in it’s stop with just a few rides in the Easy Stop.
The noseband is made of 3/8 inch nylon rope that is specially designed to lay right from the first ride. The headstall is made of 3/4 inch dense, tight-fibered harness leather. The leather has been edged, hand-rubbed, oiled with Neatsfoot Oil and hand-rubbed again. The buckles are stainless steel and the leather beneath the buckles is hand stitched together to prevent the buckles from sliding down as you’re adjusting the headstall. This Easy Stop includes a hand-tied tan 1/4 inch nylon fiador tied to the top of the spoon so it won’t interfere with the reins.
Choice of Reins: Almost any of the reins we make will work well. If you don’t see what you need here, please see the rein category These reins can be purchased separately.
How it works: The Easy Stop noseband will apply pressure on the nose just like a hackamore or bosal. Additionally, the stainless steel Easy Stop spoon will come forward as the reins are pulled and make contact with the horse’s chin, in the space between the 2 jawbones (the intermandibular space). I carefully designed the angle of the Easy Stop spoon to function correctly and lay close enough to the horse’s intermandibular space that it doesn’t apply pressure until the reins are pulled. The edges of the spoon are smooth and have a gentle bevel so there’s nothing sharp touching your horse. This Easy Stop is designed so the spoon doesn’t flip over when there’s not any pressure on the reins.
This is used by top professional cutting, cow horse, reining and barrel horse trainers, among others, and will last through years of use. This is a real good tool to have in your tack room for those times when a horse is not responding as soon as he is being asked to stop. Your horse should be broke to give at the poll and should be flexible both laterally and longitudinally before being ridden with an easy stop.
Shown on the horse with the Easy Stop are a pair of XX Harness Leather Split Reins #ASR3.
If you are unfamiliar with the use of an Easy Stop, seek professional help before using it on your horse.
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Kick Chain #KC1
$67.00Description: The Kick Chain #KC1 is made of doubled and stitched 1 3/4 inch burgundy latigo. It has a leather cuff that fastens to a rectangle to secure it to the fetlock. The rectangle, dee and 12 inch chain are all smooth stainless steel. This kick chain is made to fit the front or back fetlock of any size horse.
How it works: This is an ideal aid for horses that want to kick or paw while in the stall or trailer, or paw while tied up. It can be fastened to either a front or hind fetlock. Most horses will stop pawing or kicking after a short time with the kick chain but a small percentage will need to wear it indefinitely. Generally, one kick chain can be used for a session and then transferred to the other front or back fetlock for a session and the problem will be solved. Occasionally a horse that has been pawing or kicking for a long time will need to wear a kick chain on both legs at the same time.
This is sold as a single kick chain. If you need more than 1 please order additional kick chains in the ”quantity” box.
This is not a tool to be used for teaching horses to not kick at people.
Shown on a horse that is 15.1 hands and 1100 pounds.
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German Martingale with Split Reins #CM1C
$202.00Description: The German Martingale with Split Reins #CM1C is the same as the German Martingale Complete #CM1A but without headstall or bit. The martingale is made of 1/4 inch tan nylon cord and comes with your choice of 3 harness leather reins: #ASR6 DM Harness Leather Split Reins are 6 1/2 to 7 feet long and work well on smaller horses, the #ASR3 XX Harness Leather Split Reins are 7 to 7 1/2 feet long and a good choice for horses 14.2 to 16 hands and the #ASR2 XXX Harness Leather Split Reins are 7 1/2 to 8 feet long and work well for horses 16 hands and over. See dropdown to order.
How it Works: The key to the German martingale is the long neck strap giving a good line from the bit to the cinch. This allows the neck to lower from the withers before flexing at the poll. The 1/8 inch solid braid cord that runs through the bit to the reins has a high quality hard finish so slides very easily allowing a quick release. The release is more important than the pull but you have to pull to get the release. A horse learns from the release. The safety hobble strap attached to the neck strap goes through the gullet of the saddle and over the horn to prevent the neck strap from sliding to the ears.
Assistance from a professional is necessary to learn safe use of a German martingale.
The martingale is a very useful tool to aid a horse in learning proper head position as he learns collection. If adjusted correctly a martingale does not force the head to stay in any given position but allows the horse a guide for head placement through automatic release of pressure on the reins when correct head placement is achieved. This can make it easier for a horse to reach a more collected frame over time by allowing assistance with head position as the rider teaches the horse to drive from behind.
The labeled diagram shows the Complete German Martingale #CM1A. This German Martingale with Split Reins #CM1C is the same but comes without headstall and bit.
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1″ Hobble #H1
$85.00Description: This 1″ Hobble #H1 is made of doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are stainless steel. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture). Hobbles are very good for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding correctly to pressure.
Many horses have been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because they were hobble trained. A horseman may also teach his or her horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so it won’t need to be tied or ground tied. When a horse is hobbled it won’t hurt its mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or looped rein. Hobbles and sidelines can also have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind. Investing in hobbles and their training can have big pay-backs.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
