Training Fork #CM7
Price range: $36.00 through $46.00
Description: This adjustable training fork is made of tan 1/4 inch solid braid nylon rope with a 1 1/2 inch stainless steel ring tied to each end for a rein to run through. A stainless steel snap attaches it to the cinch.
How it works: A training fork helps horses learn to carry their heads in the proper position to allow them to drive from behind and improve collection. The training fork will apply pressure to the reins and bit anytime the horse’s head rises. You simply adjust the length of the cord that connects to the cinch to place the training fork rings in the correct position for each horse you’re riding. Learn more about training fork and running martingale adjustment here: Running Martingale Adjustment and Use-Keep it Safe.
Do not let the horse drop its head to the ground because it can step on the rein or training fork and cause an accident. Whenever a training fork is used, rein stops need to be used on the reins. Rein Stops will prevent the rings on the training fork from getting caught on the rein ends. Rein stops can be ordered in the dropdown.
Related products
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Sliding Running Martingale #CM3
$95.00Description: The Sliding Running Martingale #CM3 has a 3/4 inch adjustable neck strap made of heavy harness leather. Each end of the neck strap is stitched to a stainless steel ring. An adjustable tie down strap is sewn to the center of the neck strap ring on one end and snapped to the cinch on the other end. A second snap with a ring-end is snapped to the opposite side of the center ring of the neck strap. A heavy 1/4 inch nylon cord runs through the ring end of the snap. The nylon cord is 18 inches long and has rein rings at each end. An 1/2 inch latigo leather safety hobble strap with a slit on one end runs from the neck strap through the gullet of the saddle and over the horn. This safety hobble strap prevents the neck strap from sliding to the ears.
How it works: Running martingales are very useful tools to aid horses in learning proper head position as they learn collection. With this martingale, the sliding action of the nylon cord, occurring when the rider pulls on either rein, helps your horse maintain a correct frame as his head turns. If adjusted correctly a martingale does not force the head to stay in any given position but allows the horse a guide for head placement through automatic release of pressure on the reins when correct head placement is achieved. This can make it easier for a horse to reach a more collected frame over time by allowing assistance with head position as the rider teaches the horse to drive from behind.
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1″ Hobble #H1
$85.00Description: This 1″ Hobble #H1 is made of doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are stainless steel. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture). Hobbles are very good for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding correctly to pressure.
Many horses have been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because they were hobble trained. A horseman may also teach his or her horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so it won’t need to be tied or ground tied. When a horse is hobbled it won’t hurt its mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or looped rein. Hobbles and sidelines can also have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind. Investing in hobbles and their training can have big pay-backs.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
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Kick Chain #KC1
$67.00Description: The Kick Chain #KC1 is made of doubled and stitched 1 3/4 inch burgundy latigo. It has a leather cuff that fastens to a rectangle to secure it to the fetlock. The rectangle, dee and 12 inch chain are all smooth stainless steel. This kick chain is made to fit the front or back fetlock of any size horse.
How it works: This is an ideal aid for horses that want to kick or paw while in the stall or trailer, or paw while tied up. It can be fastened to either a front or hind fetlock. Most horses will stop pawing or kicking after a short time with the kick chain but a small percentage will need to wear it indefinitely. Generally, one kick chain can be used for a session and then transferred to the other front or back fetlock for a session and the problem will be solved. Occasionally a horse that has been pawing or kicking for a long time will need to wear a kick chain on both legs at the same time.
This is sold as a single kick chain. If you need more than 1 please order additional kick chains in the ”quantity” box.
This is not a tool to be used for teaching horses to not kick at people.
Shown on a horse that is 15.1 hands and 1100 pounds.
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Nylon Rope Cavesson w/Rawhide Braided Nose #CA1
$155.00Description: The noseband on this 3/16″ Nylon Rope Cavesson w/Rawhide Braided Nose #CA1 is made of round 3/16 inch rope. The nose button and heel knot are covered in hand braided rawhide. The headstall is made of 1/2 inch burgundy latigo leather with a leather loop keeper. The buckle is beveled stainless steel. The headstall leather just below the buckle is handsewn together to prevent the buckle from slipping when the headstall is adjusted. There are hand braided rawhide ring knots on the noseband to hold the headstall in place.
This cavesson comes in small (19 in.), medium (21 in.), large (23 in.) and extra large (25 in.) (see dropdown). In general a small will fit a horse under 14.2 hands and 900 lbs., a medium will fit a horse between 14.2 and 15 hands, a large will fit most horses between 15.1 and 16 hands and the extra large is for those over 16 hands.
Size Measurement: An easy way to be certain to get the correct cavesson size is to wrap a leadrope around the nose where the cavesson will lay, mark the leadrope with a magic marker, straighten it and then measure the leadrope. When measuring, be sure to wrap the leadrope loosely enough that the horse will have enough room between his nose and the cavesson to be comfortable and to be able to hold the bit. A good rule of thumb is 2 fingers width between the nose and cavesson (which is the diameter of most leadropes) if the horse is trained to a cavesson.
This is our favorite for a horse that has advanced beyond the leather and string cavessons. It gives the strongest signal of any of our cavessons. It looks good on a horse.
For more information on cavesson fit and use visit: There’s More to a Cavesson than Meets the Eye: How and Why to Use Cavessons
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1 3/4″ Hobble #H2
$126.00Description: The 1 3/4″ Hobble #H2 is handmade of doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather with smooth handmade stainless steel squares. This is a stout hobble at 1 3/4 inches. The soft but strong latigo leather should not chafe your horse’s legs.
How it works: Many horses have been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because they were hobble trained. A horseman may also teach his or her horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so it won’t need to be tied or ground tied. When a horse is hobbled it won’t hurt its mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or looped rein. Hobbles and sidelines can also have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind. Investing in hobbles and their training can have big pay-backs.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on proper and safe use of hobbles.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
