Walker No Chew Lead Rope #ALR3
$33.00
Description: This Walker No Chew Lead Rope #ALR3 is made of white medium lay 1/2 inch nylon rope. The stainless steel bull snap is hand braided/spliced in and the tail is braided back to prevent unraveling. It has 18 inches of plastic cover at the snap end. The length is 10 feet before braiding, making it approximately 9 ft. 4 in. when it’s finished.
How it works: The plastic cover on the snap end of this lead shank his can be a great help in preventing horses from chewing their lead ropes when tied. It works really well as a crosstie or hot walker rope also. The 1/2 inch nylon makes a good, stout, leadrope with plenty of flexibility to tie easily. You may see how to properly tie a lead rope by clicking: Take Me To Your Lead Rope.
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1″ Hobble #H1
$85.00Description: This 1″ Hobble #H1 is made of doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are stainless steel. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture). Hobbles are very good for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding correctly to pressure.
Many horses have been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because they were hobble trained. A horseman may also teach his or her horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so it won’t need to be tied or ground tied. When a horse is hobbled it won’t hurt its mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or looped rein. Hobbles and sidelines can also have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind. Investing in hobbles and their training can have big pay-backs.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
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No Buckle Hobble with Leather Center #H3L
$105.00Description: This No Buckle Hobble with Leather Center #H3L is made of 1 3/4 inch doubled and stitched latigo leather. It has a 3 inch long latigo leather link in the center to separate your horse’s legs. The rings and squares are made of smooth stainless steel. This hobble has an easy “on/off” latch that makes it so quick and simple to take on and off your horse’s fetlocks. This should only be used on horses that are completely hobble broke.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on the safe and proper use of hobbles.
Only for use on horses that are hobble broke.
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Sliding Running Martingale #CM3
$95.00Description: The Sliding Running Martingale #CM3 has a 3/4 inch adjustable neck strap made of heavy harness leather. Each end of the neck strap is stitched to a stainless steel ring. An adjustable tie down strap is sewn to the center of the neck strap ring on one end and snapped to the cinch on the other end. A second snap with a ring-end is snapped to the opposite side of the center ring of the neck strap. A heavy 1/4 inch nylon cord runs through the ring end of the snap. The nylon cord is 18 inches long and has rein rings at each end. An 1/2 inch latigo leather safety hobble strap with a slit on one end runs from the neck strap through the gullet of the saddle and over the horn. This safety hobble strap prevents the neck strap from sliding to the ears.
How it works: Running martingales are very useful tools to aid horses in learning proper head position as they learn collection. With this martingale, the sliding action of the nylon cord, occurring when the rider pulls on either rein, helps your horse maintain a correct frame as his head turns. If adjusted correctly a martingale does not force the head to stay in any given position but allows the horse a guide for head placement through automatic release of pressure on the reins when correct head placement is achieved. This can make it easier for a horse to reach a more collected frame over time by allowing assistance with head position as the rider teaches the horse to drive from behind.
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Bill Riddle Sideline #SL2
Price range: $97.00 through $106.00Description: The Bill Riddle Sideline #SL2 is made of two doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather cuffs with easy on/easy off closures. These cuffs are 1 3/4 inch wide and connected by your choice of 24, 30 or 36 inch (see dropdown) pieces of soft white nylon rope. The rectangles and Dees are made of smooth round stainless steel rod.
How it works: This is a very helpful piece of equipment to use when you are sacking out a colt, teaching a young horse to stand hobbled or wanting to keep a horse from kicking in the trailer. You can prevent a horse that kicks in the trailer from hurting himself or damaging the trailer by using this sideline on just the left side or right side legs or use two sidelines and cross them between the legs. Sidelines and hobbles can both have a quieting effect on a horse’s mind.
The first time you use the sideline on your horse or while training the horse to accept them use a wide open sandy area. Do not put it on in the trailer or other confined space until they accept the sideline easily and well.
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Bronc Sideline #SL1
$97.00Description: The cuffs on this Bronc Sideline #SL1 are made of 1 3/4 inch doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather with a leather tab fastener for easy connection and release. The rectangle and Dee are made of smooth round stainless steel rod. The cuffs are connected with 1/2 inch by 24 inch nylon rope. This’ll be one of the handiest tools you’ll ever use.
How it works: To apply the Bronc Sideline just build a loop in the back of the cuff by sliding the rope through, let the colt step in it and pull it snug. Let him settle and then attach the easy-on front cuff. Always use caution when putting the sideline on for the first time. Get out in an open sandy arena with lots of room so your colts or horses will be safe if they react to having their legs connected with the sideline. Once horses learn how a sideline feels they usually accept it and stand quietly. Both sidelines and hobbles can have a very quieting effect on the horse’s mind.
The first time you use the sideline on your horse or while training the horse to accept it use a wide open sandy area. Do not put it on in a confined space until they accept the sideline easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of sidelines seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
