Walker No Chew Lead Rope #ALR3
$33.00
Description: This Walker No Chew Lead Rope #ALR3 is made of white medium lay 1/2 inch nylon rope. The stainless steel bull snap is hand braided/spliced in and the tail is braided back to prevent unraveling. It has 18 inches of plastic cover at the snap end. The length is 10 feet before braiding, making it approximately 9 ft. 4 in. when it’s finished.
How it works: The plastic cover on the snap end of this lead shank his can be a great help in preventing horses from chewing their lead ropes when tied. It works really well as a crosstie or hot walker rope also. The 1/2 inch nylon makes a good, stout, leadrope with plenty of flexibility to tie easily. You may see how to properly tie a lead rope by clicking: Take Me To Your Lead Rope.
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1″ Hobble #H1
$85.00Description: This 1″ Hobble #H1 is made of doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather. The buckle is a stainless steel square top roller buckle and the rings are stainless steel. It is small enough to hang on your saddle rear D and stout enough to last for years.
How it works: This hobble works especially well for sacking out colts and patience training when used in combination with the #SL1 Bronc Sideline (shown on horse in picture). Hobbles are very good for teaching patience, trust in the handler, and responding correctly to pressure.
Many horses have been saved from severe injury when caught in wire because they were hobble trained. A horseman may also teach his or her horse to accept hobbles and sidelines so it won’t need to be tied or ground tied. When a horse is hobbled it won’t hurt its mouth with a jerk from a stepped on or looped rein. Hobbles and sidelines can also have a quieting effect on the horse’s mind. Investing in hobbles and their training can have big pay-backs.
To put a set of hobbles on:
1. Starting with the right front leg, wrap the end of the hobble strap clockwise around the leg and lace it through the first metal ring.
2. Lace the strap through the second ring.
3. Run the strap behind the left front leg.
4. Buckle the strap.
For more information on hobbles read my Tack Talk Article Hobble Along.
The first time you use the hobbles on your colt or horse, or while training the horse to accept hobbles, use a wide open sandy area. Do not put hobbles on in a confined space until they accept them easily and well. If you are not familiar with the use of hobbles seek help from a professional who is experienced with their use.
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No Buckle Hobble with Chain Center #H3C
$102.00Description: This No Buckle Hobble with Chain Center #H3C has an easy “on/off latch” that makes it a snap to take on and off your horse’s fetlocks. It is 1 3/4 inches wide and made of doubled and stitched latigo leather. The smooth stainless steel chain link in the center makes it more flexible than similar hobbles with leather centers such as the #H3L No Buckle Hobble. This should only be used on horses that are completely hobble broke.
Visit “Hobble Along” to read my Tack Talk article on proper and safe use hobbles.
For use only on horses that are hobble broke.
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Bill Riddle Sideline #SL2
Price range: $97.00 through $106.00Description: The Bill Riddle Sideline #SL2 is made of two doubled and stitched burgundy latigo leather cuffs with easy on/easy off closures. These cuffs are 1 3/4 inch wide and connected by your choice of 24, 30 or 36 inch (see dropdown) pieces of soft white nylon rope. The rectangles and Dees are made of smooth round stainless steel rod.
How it works: This is a very helpful piece of equipment to use when you are sacking out a colt, teaching a young horse to stand hobbled or wanting to keep a horse from kicking in the trailer. You can prevent a horse that kicks in the trailer from hurting himself or damaging the trailer by using this sideline on just the left side or right side legs or use two sidelines and cross them between the legs. Sidelines and hobbles can both have a quieting effect on a horse’s mind.
The first time you use the sideline on your horse or while training the horse to accept them use a wide open sandy area. Do not put it on in the trailer or other confined space until they accept the sideline easily and well.
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Dog Bone Rawhide Noseband/Tiedown #T2
Price range: $121.00 through $193.00Description: This Dog Bone Rawhide Noseband/Tiedown #T2 is made of 3/8 inch nylon rope with handbraided rawhide nose. The leather hanger has been edged, hand rubbed, treated with Neatsfoot Oil and hand rubbed again. The buckle is stainless steel with a hand braided rawhide keeper. The leather beneath the buckle is stitched together to keep the buckle in place when you adjust it between horses. The dog-bone is also stainless steel. Shown without a tiedown strap but available with your choice of a #ZG 1 inch or a 3/4 inch Leather Tie Down Strap or a #ZH Nylon Tie Down Strap (see dropdown to order).
How it works: You will like the way the rawhide feels on your horse’s nose and how much better your horse will respond to the rawhide if he’s been pushing on a leather tiedown. This tiedown will hold up to years of hard use.
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Nylon Rope Cavesson w/Rawhide Braided Nose #CA1
$155.00Description: The noseband on this 3/16″ Nylon Rope Cavesson w/Rawhide Braided Nose #CA1 is made of round 3/16 inch rope. The nose button and heel knot are covered in hand braided rawhide. The headstall is made of 1/2 inch burgundy latigo leather with a leather loop keeper. The buckle is beveled stainless steel. The headstall leather just below the buckle is handsewn together to prevent the buckle from slipping when the headstall is adjusted. There are hand braided rawhide ring knots on the noseband to hold the headstall in place.
This cavesson comes in small (19 in.), medium (21 in.), large (23 in.) and extra large (25 in.) (see dropdown). In general a small will fit a horse under 14.2 hands and 900 lbs., a medium will fit a horse between 14.2 and 15 hands, a large will fit most horses between 15.1 and 16 hands and the extra large is for those over 16 hands.
Size Measurement: An easy way to be certain to get the correct cavesson size is to wrap a leadrope around the nose where the cavesson will lay, mark the leadrope with a magic marker, straighten it and then measure the leadrope. When measuring, be sure to wrap the leadrope loosely enough that the horse will have enough room between his nose and the cavesson to be comfortable and to be able to hold the bit. A good rule of thumb is 2 fingers width between the nose and cavesson (which is the diameter of most leadropes) if the horse is trained to a cavesson.
This is our favorite for a horse that has advanced beyond the leather and string cavessons. It gives the strongest signal of any of our cavessons. It looks good on a horse.
For more information on cavesson fit and use visit: There’s More to a Cavesson than Meets the Eye: How and Why to Use Cavessons
